1.69 Introduction to Coastal Engineering
Basic dynamics of ocean surface waves; wave-driven, wind-driven, and tidal currents; boundary layers and sediment transport; and selected engineering applications. Formulation of the boundary-value problem for surface waves, linear plane-wave solution, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, statistical representation, and elements of nonlinearity. Depth-averaged formulation and selected solutions for sea level and currents driven by waves, winds, and tides. Elements of boundary layers, initial sediment motion, and bedload and suspended sediment transport. Alongshore sediment transport and shoreline change. Emphasizes basic principles, mathematical formulation and solution, and physical interpretation, with selected applications and exposure to current research.
This class has 1.061 as a prerequisite.
1.69 will not be offered this semester. It will be instructed by J. Trowbridge.
Lecture occurs 1:00 PM to 2:30 PM on Mondays and Wednesdays in 54-827.
This class counts for a total of 12 credits.
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